Room temperature has moved on

The old advice to serve red wine at room temperature came from cooler rooms than most of us live in now. A modern kitchen in July can make a bright, delicate red taste heavy and tired. A little cooling brings back lift, shape and refreshment.

Which reds enjoy a chill?

Look for reds described as juicy, light-bodied, fragrant or low in tannin. Gamay, lighter Pinot Noir, Frappato and some young Grenache-based wines are good places to begin. If the wine is pale in the glass and makes you think of red berries rather than oak and leather, it is probably worth trying cooler.

How long is enough?

Twenty to thirty minutes in the fridge is a useful start. You want the bottle cool to the touch, not icy. Serve it, taste it and notice how it changes as it warms. That small journey through temperature is often more revealing than any formal tasting note.

What to put beside it

Chillable reds are made for generous, mixed tables: charcuterie, tomato dishes, grilled vegetables, roast chicken, pizza and anything eaten outdoors. They also solve the familiar problem of a table where half the guests want white and the other half insist on red.

What should stay out of the fridge?

Very full-bodied, tannic or mature reds usually show more generously with less cooling. Even then, a warm room is rarely their friend. The rule is simple: cool gently, taste often and trust the glass in front of you.